The Quiet Grandeur of Castelnuovo al Volturno
Castelnuovo al Volturno/span> is a small Molise gem in the province of Isernia, nestled between the Mainarde mountains.
A fraction of the municipality of Rocchetta al Volturno, it is an ancient land where you can stroll through its history, culture, and marvel at the beauty of this small but grand village.
From the Mountains Descends “Gl’ Cierv”
Every year, on the last day of the Carnival festivities, the pantomime of the Deer Man takes place, an ancient ritual with unknown origins that was revived in 1985 thanks to the will of some locals.
Gl’ Cierv is a spectral performance showcasing the devastating power not only of man but of nature and how both also possess a generative and benevolent energy.
The ritual unfolds entirely in the only square in Castelnuovo al Volturno, surrounded by the Mainarde mountains, which make the atmosphere even more evocative and strengthen the bond between landscape and folklore typical of these areas.
The ritual begins with the figures of the Maone and the Janare who dance and shout around a tall fire, in rhythm with the music. Suddenly, darkness falls across the square, and from afar, accompanied by the incessant drumming, the tall horns of the evening’s protagonist—the Deer—emerge.
It arrives with all its destructiveness, overturning everything in its path and spreading panic among the villagers.
Its animal fury is momentarily tamed by the arrival of the Doe, who enchants it with a love dance.
This fake peace lasts only a moment, as the music picks up again, and both resume their destruction, accompanied by loud screams.
Among the various characters in the pantomime, in addition to the villagers and the benevolent figure of Martino, you will notice the Hunter, who, bringing silence to the village, shoots the Deer and the Doe with two sharp shots.
But after death comes rebirth, and indeed, the man who took their lives approaches the two animals, kneels down, and, whispering, grants new life to the two deer, who return to the trees of the mountains while the village celebrates their banishment.
The Absurdity of War Propaganda
In addition to its cultural grandeur, Castelnuovo is unfortunately associated with a horrific event that took place during World War II.
During the conflict, the fraction had miraculously suffered little damage, but just when the nightmare seemed to be over, something absurd happened.
Castelnuovo is located near the stretch of land that was marked to stop the advance of the Allies on the peninsula: the Gustav Line.
After being evacuated by the Germans in 1943, they hid on Mount Marrone, while the Americans were in the plain. It was only thanks to the arrival of the Alpine Corps of the Italian Liberation Army that the enemy was pushed north and the top of the mountain was captured.
Miraculously, the village had not suffered major damage, but this all changed in the spring of ’44 when an English officer ordered the evacuation of the area to allow for the disinfection of the entire village.
The reality, however, was different.
Castelnuovo became the set of an American propaganda film, where, with actors and film cameras, a brutal battle was staged.
The inhabitants, who returned only in July to their village, found their homes destroyed and trees blown up.
Photo credit: Il Rito dell’Uomo Cervo (Facebook page) – Wikipedia
