The Art and History of Civitacampomarano
One of the most famous captions related to Molise is “instagrammable” right in Civitacampomarano, where, on a crumbling wall in the historic center, on Via Garibaldi, the motto “Molise does not exist, it resists” is immortalized.
And perhaps no town in Molise embodies the concept of resilience better than this small village halfway between the Biferno Valley and the Trigno Valley.
In recent years, Civitacampomarano, with just 400 inhabitants, has demonstrated an incredible ability to overcome the challenges of a small Apennine center.
Through great community effort, it has managed to enhance its historic center and traditions to the point of gaining national and international recognition.
The Historic Center and the Castle
The village of Civitacampomarano is one of the most beautiful ancient villages in Molise. Partially damaged by a landslide, it has been the stage for numerous significant historical events over the centuries.
This is evidenced by the presence of the majestic castle, one of the largest and best-preserved in the region.
Thanks to a skillful restoration, it is now possible to visit the entire structure and explore the stables, cellars, kitchen, pantry, noble floor, towers, guard walkway, and dungeons.
A journey into 15th-century Molise that leaves visitors enchanted, starting from its Catalan-Aragonese style portal. The coats of arms adorning it tell the fascinating story of Paolo di Sangro’s betrayal, a famous mercenary captain.
The Castle of Civitacampomarano, in fact, was the rich reward for this leader, a loyal servant of the Angevin crown.
During the battle in the Piana di Sessano against the Aragonese for the conquest of the Kingdom of Naples in 1442, he decided to betray the French crown and fight on the side of the Spanish, shouting: “Aragona, Aragona!”
Under Paolo di Sangro’s rule, the original castle (already over two centuries old) was transformed into a magnificent Martinian fortress.
Fearing a counterattack by the French, the Aragonese hired an expert in fortifications, the Sienese architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini. His task was to modernize the Castle of Civitacampomarano along with other significant fortresses in their new kingdom (including some in Puglia and Abruzzo).
The Sienese architect turned the castle into an impregnable fortress, designing a sophisticated defense system, parts of which are still visible today, that included the entire historic village.
A land of intellectuals and renowned professionals (doctors, lawyers, notaries, etc.), the town is famous for being the birthplace of Vincenzo Cuoco, Gabriele Pepe, Raffaele Pepe, and Marcello Pepe, philosophers, politicians, and patriots involved in the creation of the Neapolitan Republic in 1799.
Cvtà Street Fest
The historic center is rich in beautiful architecture (including the picturesque “merchant’s house”) and offers breathtaking views of the badlands, characteristic rock formations (similar to those in northern Puglia) declared a site of community interest.
These formations interact with works by internationally renowned artists created as part of the annual street art festival Cvtà Street Fest.
Today, urban regeneration through contemporary art is no longer surprising, but years ago, in this small Molise village, the idea of creating street art with vibrant colors and contemporary graphics was incredibly unusual.
Thus, this is the story of an Apennine miracle, made possible through the tenacity and resilience of this small community and, above all, the contribution of a world-famous street artist with local roots: Alice Pasquini.
Invited by the local Pro Loco, Alice gladly accepted the invitation to return to her grandparents’ land, embarking on an artistic and personal journey that reinterpreted an ancient and depopulated village through the lens of contemporary art.
Her first works were so incredible and meaningful that they immediately attracted local and national media attention, as well as a large number of tourists.
Building on this experience, the entire community got involved. Since 2016, Alice has been the artistic director of one of Italy’s most important street art festivals.
Among the artists who have participated over the years are some of the biggest names in the global street art scene: Icks, Biancoshock, David de la Mano, Hitnes, 2501, Jan Vormann, Thiago Mazza, Pablo S. Herrero, and many more.
During this event, which takes place in early June, all the residents of Civitacampomarano play an active role in the organization.
They manage artist residencies, organize workshops to promote local products, guide and inform tourists, and animate the streets and squares of the village as if in a grand folk festival.
It has become a new tradition for an entire community, small but strong, uniting around these ancient walls that speak to new generations from the heart about a titanic struggle against depopulation.
Curiosities
The town is renowned for “ciell” (little birds), stuffed biscuits that were traditionally made for weddings and important celebrations.
Ciell, still made exclusively by hand at home and baked in a single oven in the historic center, have received the De.Co. (Denominazione Comunale) designation from the Municipality of Civitacampomarano. However, they are also a tradition in other nearby villages.
These biscuits, considered good luck charms according to tradition, are decorated with intricate patterns using special toothed pincers crafted by a specialized artisan.
Photo Credits: Vaghis, Teleregione Molise
