Campobasso, the Procession of Misteri

Campobasso, like many Italian cities, boasts ancient traditions still deeply felt by the community.

Among the most important are the Good Friday procession, the Infiorata, and the famous “Mysteries” procession, which embodies the devotion of the citizens on Corpus Domini day.

This movable feast is one of the main celebrations of the Catholic liturgical year and the most significant in the Molise capital.

It marks the conclusion of the festivities linked to Easter and celebrates the mystery of the Eucharist. This year, Corpus Domini will take place on Sunday, June 19, 2022.

The Mysteries

The procession features 13 shoulder-borne “machines,” iron and steel structures that, thanks to costumed people, objects, and accessories, depict saints and scenes from their lives.
Twelve Mysteries (Saint Isidore, the Assumption, Saint Januarius, Abraham, the Immaculate Conception, Saint Anthony the Abbot, Mary Magdalene, Saint Leonard, Saint Roch, Saint Crispin, Saint Michael, and Saint Nicholas) were crafted in the mid-18th century by specialized artisans from Campobasso, renowned for ironworking.

The “ingegni” were commissioned by the city’s confraternities and designed by Paolo Saverio Di Zinno, a highly regarded sculptor from Campobasso. Originally, there were twenty-four.

Six did not pass the testing phase, and another six were lost during the earthquake of July 28, 1805, due to the collapse of the roof of the Church of Santa Maria della Croce, where they were stored.

In 1959, the Tucci workshop in Campobasso created the thirteenth Mystery, the Sacred Heart of Jesus, based on a drawing attributed to Di Zinno.

These Mysteries represent the evolution of sacred scenes strongly promoted by the Church as early as the Middle Ages. Spread across Europe, they reinforced religious solemnities and liturgical services through the power of imagery.

The Traditional Procession

This tradition has been upheld for centuries with great dedication by the entire community.
The city’s confraternities oversaw all preparations until the 19th century.

Today, the city of Campobasso, along with the Association of Mysteries and Traditions, organizes this magnificent event, which proudly represents the city and aspires to UNESCO recognition.

Historic families of the capital gather early in the morning at the Museum of the Mysteries, where preparations have been in full swing for months and where the “ingegni” are usually kept.

Dozens of participants prepare and climb onto these graceful structures, which will be carried on shoulders at regular intervals and a steady pace along a set route.

From the Museum of the Mysteries, on the morning of June 19, they will depart together with the marching band, passing through part of the historic center and the “Murattian” city.

The procession will conclude by late morning, but the city’s festivities begin as early as Friday. Dozens of stalls fill the central streets, creating a colorful and multicultural market where the people of Campobasso traditionally purchase something out of devotion. Additionally, local street food specialties are available, such as scapece (pickled fish), mussillo (boiled veal offal seasoned with salt and lemon), and nocelle (roasted peanuts).

Corpus Domini in Campobasso is undoubtedly one of the must-see celebrations in Molise!

Curiosities

According to tradition, Di Zinno created a special alloy to make the Mysteries lightweight, sturdy, and flexible. This formula, which remains a secret, is believed to be the reason why the thirteenth Mystery, the last one made, is the heaviest of all.

Instagram Tips:

• A must-do: take a selfie with the devil from the Mystery of Saint Anthony the Abbot

Shopping Tips:

• Dozens of stalls crowd the center for the traditional Corpus Domini fair
• Piazzetta Palombo, Via Marconi, and Via Orefici – the historic market in Piazzetta Palombo features several local craft shops, as do Via Marconi and Via Orefici
• Chocolat – a small shop next to the Cathedral where you can find local products and souvenirs
• Di Chiro – an enogastronomic boutique in the city center offering local delicacies
• Hops UP – a beer shop featuring the finest regional craft beers from numerous local microbreweries
• Anima Caffè – a micro-roastery that honors Campobasso’s long-standing coffee roasting tradition with renewed passion and enthusiasm

Where to Stay:

• Palazzo Cannavina – a stylish B&B in a historic building in the old town
• Mixage Living – contemporary rooms along the city’s main street
• La Terrazza Antica Dimora – charming rooms with suites in the historic center

Where to Eat and Drink:

• Ristorante Monticelli – a historic center restaurant that focuses on local products and traditional recipes with a modern twist
• Zia Concetta – a renowned traditional trattoria serving typical dishes
• Da Mario – a historic and popular restaurant in the capital
• Aciniello – a historic restaurant offering traditional dishes and locally grilled meats
• Pasticceria Iannetta – a famous pastry shop where you can taste traditional sweets and buy the renowned Milk Pan, a dessert associated with Campobasso
• I Peccati di Bacco – a quality wine bar serving traditional dishes
• Drop – a cocktail bar perfect for aperitifs and after-dinner drinks, offering unconventional cocktails made with local ingredients, including a gin produced entirely in Molise

Photo credits: Lello Muzio